After 15 minutes of setting up camp at Cougar Rock Campground, I fell into my camp chair exhausted. I was exhausted not from the activity of setting up camp, but the 5.7 mile Skyline Trail Loop hike I did earlier in the day. When I left the house at 5:30 in the morning I had only planned to hike a little of the trail, just enough to get a few birds to my year list and maybe see a Mountain Goat or two.
How many times have I visited Mount Rainier and avoided getting too far from the gift shops and lunch counter at Paradise? Too many is of course the answer. Premier wilderness which I squandered looking for a T-shirt or other meaningless trinket. I had always felt intimidated or told myself the kids couldn't handle it. Unnecessary limitations I put upon myself. Despite being 53 and overweight and breathing heavy and sweating heavily, I decided I would do it. I was relatively prepared. I had lunch. I had water. I wore hiking boots and carried hiking poles.
So I committed to the loop. Though a couple of times I almost lost my nerve as you look ahead on the trail and you see people hiking that look so far away. In addition, there was still plenty of snow in places which made the trail difficult to follow at times and quiet slick. I was never so concerned as a woman I overheard talking to her hiking partner where she informed her supposed 'friend', "This is WAY outside my comfort zone. I never do hikes like this." At that moment, I was not concerned for this woman. I felt bad for her friend. Although the friend had expressed immediate concern, I thought why hadn't this other woman revealed her concerns when they were less than a mile from the top? This information was better shared in the parking lot before they settled on a hike to embark on rather than one they were half way through.
Our paths only intersected for a brief moment as we headed in opposite directions along the trail. I hoped the woman overcame her hesitation and got to enjoy the hike. I also hoped the hiking partner the best of luck in finding a new hiking partner.
Along the trail there were so many Hoary Marmots, maybe 25 or so, and half dozen Cascade Golden Mantel Ground Squirels. Small Flowered Paintbrush flowers bloomed along the trail. I also so many families hiking together which had me thinking how can I get my entire family to challenge ourselves more. There is so much more to these wild places than restaurants and gift shops. It doesn't really tick a bucket list item for me to just view the mountain from behind the glass pane windows in the Visitor Center.
The hike itself was the hardest one I had done all year and probably in some time and never at this elevation. It was rewarding to feel exhausted in my camp chair, sipping a Pelican Brewery IPA, and try avoiding seeing the shirtless man in the campsite across from mine washing his hair.
Oh...and I got two new birds for the year; a American Pipit and a Gray-crowned Rosy-Finch.
A Journey Through the Clouds: Hiking the Skyline Loop Trail in Mount Rainier National Park
The sound of gravel crunching underfoot and the cool, crisp air invigorating my lungs marked the beginning of my journey on the Skyline Loop Trail in Mount Rainier National Park. This adventure had been a long time coming, and I was eager to explore the legendary path that winds through the heart of Paradise.
Nestled in the southwestern part of Washington State, Mount Rainier stands as a sentinel, its snow-capped peak dominating the horizon. The drive up to Paradise, the starting point of the trail, is a scenic prelude to the hike itself. Winding roads flanked by towering evergreens and occasional glimpses of the mountain set the stage for the day ahead.
Nestled!!!!
The Ascent Begins
Arriving at the Paradise Visitor Center early in the morning, I was greeted by a bustling scene. Hikers of all ages were preparing for their day’s adventure, lacing up boots, adjusting backpacks, and exchanging excited chatter. With my gear ready and a map in hand, I set off on the Skyline Loop Trail, eager to experience its renowned beauty.
My map was essentially the single sheet, double sided print out of trails in the area handed out at the Vistors Center.
The trailhead sits at an elevation of around 5,400 feet, and from the very first steps, the views are nothing short of spectacular. Mount Rainier’s imposing presence looms large, a constant companion as I ascended the well-maintained path. Early summer had painted the meadows with a riot of colors – lupine, paintbrush, and avalanche lilies swayed gently in the breeze, their hues vibrant against the green backdrop.
Nature’s Symphony
The initial stretch of the trail is a gentle climb, allowing time to acclimate and soak in the surroundings. Birds flitted from branch to branch, their songs harmonizing with the distant murmur of melting snow trickling down the slopes. Marmots scurried about, pausing occasionally to inspect the human intruders with a mix of curiosity and nonchalance.
As the trail gained elevation, the terrain became steeper, the path winding through rocky outcrops and patches of lingering snow. Each turn brought a new vista, more breathtaking than the last. Looking back, the Tatoosh Range unfolded in a series of jagged peaks, while to the south, the distant silhouette of Mount St. Helens was just visible through the haze.
Reaching Panorama Point
The climb to Panorama Point is a challenge, but one that rewards tenfold. Standing at an elevation of about 6,800 feet, the view from this vantage point is nothing short of majestic. The world seemed to stretch out endlessly, the landscape a patchwork of rugged mountains, deep valleys, and glistening glaciers. On a clear day, the peaks of Mount Adams and Mount Hood joined the chorus of grandeur, their summits piercing the sky in the distance.
I don't think I saw any of these distant peaks.
The Descent and Golden Gate
After a well-deserved rest and a moment to drink in the panoramic splendor, I continued along the loop. The trail descended through the Golden Gate area, aptly named for its stunning golden-hued wildflower meadows. This section of the trail is a contrast to the rocky ascent, a gentle descent that allows for a leisurely pace and ample opportunities to spot wildlife.
A family of mountain goats grazed on a distant slope, their sure-footed grace a marvel to watch. Gray jays, known for their boldness, swooped down to investigate, perhaps hoping for a morsel of food. The sense of being immersed in nature, far from the noise and rush of everyday life, was profoundly soothing.
No Mountain Goats this time.
Reflection
Completing the loop brought me back to the Paradise Visitor Center, the journey coming full circle. The hike, though challenging at times, had been a feast for the senses and a balm for the soul. The Skyline Loop Trail is more than just a hike; it’s a pilgrimage through some of the most beautiful landscapes that nature has to offer.
As I packed away my gear and took one last look at Mount Rainier, now bathed in the golden light of late afternoon, I felt a deep sense of gratitude. Hiking the Skyline Loop Trail is a reminder of the incredible beauty and resilience of the natural world, a testament to the wonders that await those willing to venture into the wild.
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